“I think that I shall never see a poem lovely as a tree." —Joyce Kilmer, “Trees” 1913. It’s difficult to sum up the value of trees better than Joyce Kilmer does in his famous poem. Not only do trees possess an almost magical presence and beauty, they also add value to our homes and landscapes, enhance the surrounding environment, improve air quality and help reduce our utility bills in summer and winter. Planting one or more trees in a landscape can have long-lasting effects on your home and life.

Choosing your trees
Before you rush down to the nursery and purchase a tree, or before your builder’s landscaping crew installs them around your new home, make sure to do your homework. There are many things to consider when selecting and placing trees.

Size
It’s critically important to know the mature size of the tree you intend to plant. Placing large trees too close to structures or utilities (above or below ground) is one of the most common mistakes homeowners make.

Exposure
Will the tree need full sun, some shade or protection from wind? Be sure to place it where it can thrive without too much special care.

Growth and lifespan
Will the tree grow quickly or take years to reach mature size? Will it survive for many years, or will it live a fast life and die young?

Pests and problems
Is the tree prone to pests or diseases? Does the tree produce messy fruit, leaves, bark or seeds? Is it invasive or native to Georgia?

Rules and regulations
One note on new construction: many counties have tree ordinances that require builders to plant a certain number and type of trees. Check with your builder about these requirements.

Pick the perfect spot
Tree placement is an important factor, not only to enhance your property and flow with the landscape design, but also to provide the most benefit to your home and yard in terms of protection from the elements. In summer, the temperatures underneath a large shade tree or in a forest of trees can be 10 or more degrees cooler than nearby open areas. If a tree or trees are positioned correctly, this can represent substantial savings in the costs of cooling your home. Likewise, in the winter, trees can buffer cold winds and save you money on heating bills. It’s a win-win situation. For maximum summer protection, trees are best planted on the south or west sides of your home. Cold winter winds usually come from the west or north.

Having trees in the landscape is also important to other existing plants. Without some shade, plants such as azaleas, hellebores and ferns could not survive. For example, one homeowner cut down two large oak trees because the leaves were falling in the pool. They forgot about the 50 azaleas and other shade plants underneath, which would have to be moved to another shady location in order to survive.

Plant like a pro
Here are some tips for properly planting trees in Georgia.

• Trees are best planted in the fall, when the soil is still warm and the air is cool. Loosen the soil in an area 10 times the diameter of the root ball to a depth of 6-14 inches.

• The planting hole itself should be three times the diameter of the root ball. Do not add soil amendments to the planting hole. Use them on the surface as mulch.

• Plant trees a bit high, so that the flare (where the roots begin to spread out) is at or slightly above the surrounding grade. If the roots are wrapped in burlap, peel back the top third and make sure the burlap is buried.

• Do your best to remove all wire cages and twine around the root ball.

• Loosen the roots of container-grown trees. Don’t worry if you break a few smaller roots.

• Gently pack the soil around the roots, and water to remove air pockets. Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch or soil amendments.

• Install trees in islands, keeping the turf at least several feet away. Do not stake trees unless absolutely necessary and using approved methods. For these methods and more tree-planting tips, visit http://tinyurl.com/womp9.

If you don’t want to wait for smaller trees to grow, you can buy larger trees; however, they are more difficult to establish and require more care. Larger trees are sold as B&B (balled in burlap) and are best installed by professionals. They are measured in caliper inches (a special instrument is used to measure the diameter of the tree about 6 inches above the ground). A three-inch caliper tree with a large B&B root ball can weigh several hundred pounds (more when wet). These are not usually available at retail nurseries, but can be obtained at wholesale nurseries through a reputable landscape installation company.

The size and weight of large trees makes them difficult to move and install. For example, a very large, 10-inch caliper shumard oak can weigh over 1,000 pounds and have a root ball that is easily 6-8 feet in diameter. It’s often not worth the cost to buy such large trees, because research has shown that B&B trees take longer to become established and suffer more transplant shock and root damage. Many container trees can quickly catch up to and pass B&B trees in the same landscape. Trees that are grown in 5- to 30-gallon containers usually are manageable for the do-it-yourself gardener.

Remember maintenance
During the growing season, trees need about 15 gallons of water per week per inch of trunk diameter, as measured at 4.5 feet from the ground. If you get about an inch of rain each week, you do not need to water. Otherwise, water deeply once or twice a week.

Do not fertilize trees the first year they are planted or during times of drought. Trees growing in a natural area with ample organic mulch don’t need to be fertilized at all. Fertilize landscape trees only as recommended based upon soil test results, which can be done through your local Extension office. Fertilizing usually is done in late spring.

Always maintain a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch around trees. Optimally, this area should cover the entire drip zone (to the ends of the branches). Let the older mulch decompose under the tree, only adding fresh mulch to maintain the desired depth. Keep mulch several inches away from the base of the tree to reduce disease and pest problems.

Old versus young
Frequently, in new developments, builders do their best to try to save large specimen trees. Unfortunately, many times the trees die, if not immediately, than several years down the road. Using even the best efforts to protect older trees that are near the end of their lives, in poor health and cannot adapt easily to environmental change probably will not work. In most cases, preserving a stand of 25-year-old hardwoods rather than a single 100-year-old specimen near the end of its life will be more beneficial in the long run. Developers, builders and homeowners who wish to save existing trees (old or young) in construction areas should consult with an experienced Certified Arborist before a single piece of dirt is disturbed.

If you are the proud caretaker of an older or larger tree that is an integral part of your landscape, you should also schedule regular “checkups” with a Certified Arborist. Problems caught early often can be dealt with, or plans can be made in advance to remove the tree if it becomes a danger to the surrounding area or is too sick to be saved.

Trees are a wonderful addition to any landscape. Just make sure that, before you buy new ones or remove old ones, you consider the overall effect that they may have on your home and yard.