As our local population increases, water availability is becoming an issue of great concern. While we often have ample rainfall, the storage capacity of our local reservoirs has not changed. Mandatory outdoor watering restrictions have been in place for several years, and these restrictions won’t be eliminated anytime soon. As a result, our landscapes often are the victims. It stands to reason that if you want to have a nice-looking landscape and conserve water, certain landscape changes are in order.

Xeriscaping
The term xeriscaping (dry landscaping) became part of our vocabulary several decades ago in the western states. Faced with extreme droughts and often total watering bans, creative gardeners adapted. Loosely applied, xeriscaping means using techniques and plants that do not need more water than is supplied by precipitation. This varies from places like Phoenix, with less than 10 inches of annual rainfall, to Atlanta, with an annual rainfall of 50-55 inches.

Creating a xeriscape
• Use locally native plants (like the wine-cups pictured above) whenever possible. These plants have spent eons adapting to the local soil and climate. There also are many suitable non-native plants from similar climates.

• Group plants together based on their water requirements. Place those needing the most water closest to a source of irrigation.

• Place plants based on needed sun exposure and soil. Install the plants correctly by adding organic matter to the soil, and monitor them until they are established, which can take from one to three years, depending upon the species and size.

• Use a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic (not synthetic) mulch and replenish (not
replace) it one or two times each year.

• Reduce or eliminate turf, especially thirsty turf like fescue.

• Reduce fertilizer use during dry periods, especially fertilizers high in nitrogen.

• Install a rain gauge and water deeply only when needed.

Irrigation ideas
Saving water any way you can is great, but when it does become necessary to irrigate your landscape, which methods are the most effective, timesaving and cost efficient? This depends on the size of your landscape, the plants, and the amount of time and money you wish to spend. If your landscape receives an inch of water per week over the entire area, either by irrigation or rainfall, it should be plenty for most plants. For individual plants, one gallon per foot of height per week is usually sufficient. Try one of these methods to make sure your thirsty landscape is satisfied.

Automatic sprinklers
Without a doubt, this is a very convenient method of irrigation. You can set the timer and walk away. Unfortunately, there are drawbacks. Automatic sprinklers can cost thousands of dollars, especially if you have multiple zones and a large landscape. Also, they will run as set whether your landscape needs irrigation or not, even during a downpour. They also can be very inefficient, losing as much as 50 percent of the water to evaporation. Many systems are set incorrectly and water the landscape too frequently and for too short a period of time, leaving plants susceptible to diseases and shallow, drought-prone roots. It’s a good idea to turn the timer off and manually start the system only when you need to water. The system should run only once or twice a week (if it’s really dry) and only long enough to put one inch of water on the landscape. Use a tuna fish or cat food can to determine the needed duration. To reduce water loss due to evaporation, try to water early in the morning.

Drip systems deliver water directly to the root zone of plants, either individually or in small groups. Like automatic sprinklers, these can be set to timers. Aboveground tubing is run through the landscape, and each plant has its own head that connects to the main tube. Usually, all tubing is concealed beneath a layer of mulch. The amount of water delivered to each plant can be individually set based on the plant’s needs.

This is one of the most efficient irrigation systems, because water is delivered directly to the plant and very little evaporates. The drawbacks are that it can be expensive and time consuming to install. Somewhat complicated calculations are needed to set the system for the correct amount of irrigation, and if you make changes to your landscape (transplanting or installing new plants), you have to change the irrigation system.

Drip systems are not designed to irrigate turf areas, and you have to remember to turn the system off if there has been sufficient rainfall.

Soaker hoses
Soaker hoses could be known as the poor man’s drip irrigation system. Porous hoses are snaked through the landscape around the bases of plants and covered with mulch. Water drips slowly from the hose directly to the ground, so little is lost to evaporation.

Soaker hoses are inexpensive and easy to install. If you make landscape changes, simply reposition the hose. The drawbacks are that they must be attached to a spigot with a standard hose and are usually run manually (although some crafty gardeners have devised timer systems). They are not designed to irrigate turf areas. You also will need to calculate how long to run the hose to deliver the desired amount of water.

Since soaker hoses uniformly distribute water over their entire length, this is where the practice of grouping plants together based upon water needs becomes important.

Hand watering
Watering by hand is still a good way to make sure that the correct amount of water is given to each plant, but it’s very time consuming. Still, some gardeners enjoy the task, because it also gives them the chance to inspect plants visually and deal with potential problems early. Once again, only water once or twice a week and in the early morning.

Whether you decide to overhaul your landscape and try your hand at xeriscaping or you just need to find the method of irrigation that works best for you, just remember to be consistent. Finding the right balance between keeping your landscape healthy and conserving water can be tricky.